Sunday, February 14, 2010

Pondering

You go through life and leave pieces of your heart all over the world, if you're lucky. In the form of memories, in the form of friends, in the form of fleeting instances of happiness that will never be relived but will be added to your growing pile of such experiences that you can dig through at any time. The hard part is coming to terms with the fact that all these parts of you remain discrete. That you can't be in Bloomington and Tangier and San Francisco and Cairo and India all at once, can't be with your nerd friends and your family and your Arab friends and your queer friends (who would magically all get along), all together and rolled into one crazy awesome party in all of the aforementioned places. I realize that innumerable moral dilemmas are averted by virtue of time's unidirectionality—there is currently no threat of future!me killing past!me, for instance—but at the same time it's sometimes just like ... really? Really I can't whimsically mix and match people and places until I hit perfection? Where is my personal Great American Melting Pot, and can you smell the fondue burning?

Three weeks I've been in Cairo and it hurts to think that one sixth of my time here is finished, khalas, gone. The weather is suddenly hotter and I just finished my fourth and last bottle of exotically-flavored soda (ha). Fanta wildberry, Fanta apple, Mirinda pineapple, Mirinda hibiscus and now that they're all gone I feel like I'm come full circle in some way.

I'm so over the US and I love it here—cannot stress enough how much I love it here—but every now and then there's a twinge of, if only the one working elevator went to all the floors instead of just the odd ones. If only I could walk around outside for a couple of hours without ending up covered in grime. If only I could understand it when people spoke to me. A series of ifonlies that would probably be longer if I were still in America, I guess. And really the hardest thing is being in Arabia without my friends from Morocco last summer. Overall it's wonderful, but it would be unimaginably better if they were here too.

Anyway, yeah. Time time time. In other news, happy Valentine's day to all:


I'll post a real entry soon inshallah -- we went to Islamic Cairo, saw a bunch of architecture, it was really cool. Will update you on that ASAP.

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

book fair et cetera

I feel like I'm somehow caught in a trap of writing blog posts that sound disinterested and unenthusiastic and melancholy even though that's totally not the mood I'm trying to convey. Sorry about that. In case I haven't said it enough: I'm in Cairo! It's super exciting! I'm in a big city instead of a college town! I'm in Arabia instead of Amurrica! There's great food and great people and really what more can you ask for in life? So yeah. Things are busy and awesome and yay. Case in point:

So apparently there's this crazy book fair that happens in Cairo each year. Yesterday after class, me and some of the Egyptian students whom I had met earlier went to that. It was pretty far from Dokki, and huuuuuge, so we ended up wandering around there for hours. I mean, you know how I am with bookstores, haha, and this was about a million of them put together. It was really exciting. My research mentor back home (for whom I'm technically supposed to be doing 8-10 hours of work a week right now ... oops ... will get on that) wants to do a project on representations of the Prophet Muhammad in Islamic children's books. Fascinating, right? So I bought a ton of قصص نبوية to look over and read, and inshallah there'll be some interesting visual themes that emerge. That's the goal, at least.

There were lots of other books too, of course, and of course I wanted to buy them all, but I was short on cash and settled for a book of Darwish's poetry rather than translations of Harry Potter and Tintin, which I also desperately wanted to buy. Maybe I can go back sometime. Not sure when it ends. Should figure that out.

But yeah, it was a fun day :) Photos:





Us.






Requisite photo of Michelle Obama, I guess.












Tents and tents of books.
Which is to say: Paradise.

Again with the puppets!
Why do they seem to be this
semester's recurring theme?




Stacks of used American textbooks.
3 LE apiece.
Remember those math and lit books, anyone?!



Anyway, after that, we headed back to Amideast for movie night, and watched The Yacoubian Building. It's in Arabic (with English subtitles), based on a novel by an Egyptian author/dentist who apparently lives near one of our program directors. Anyway, it was a realllly good movie. I mean, a little traumatizing. One of the more depressing statements on the human condition that I've recently encountered. But I really want to see it again, soon. Hm. You should too!

Okay that's it for now. Later!

Monday, February 8, 2010

two things

(1) I'm a little scared that this is turning out to be waaaay too similar to Argentina for comfort in a certain respect. Not sure who's reading this so I won't elaborate, but you know what I mean. Cough cough Diego. Et cetera. :/ Haha oh well I'll deal.

(2) Has everyone read "Dreamland," by Poe? If not, you should. It's been in my head a lot recently. I'm posting the full text here in the hopes that you'll read it. My tastes in literature tend to veer towards the morbid so don't overthink the connection between the poem and the Cairo experience. Don't worry it's not hellish or creepy or dark here. What seemed relevant was just, you know, the vague ideas about traveling and not really comprehending one's surroundings and stuff like that. Anyway, read on:

By a route obscure and lonely,
Haunted by ill angels only,
Where an Eidolon, named NIGHT,
On a black throne reigns upright,
I have reached these lands but newly
From an ultimate dim Thule—
From a wild clime that lieth, sublime,
Out of SPACE—out of TIME.

Bottomless vales and boundless floods,
And chasms, and caves, and Titan woods,
With forms that no man can discover
For the tears that drip all over;
Mountains toppling evermore
Into seas without a shore;
Seas that restlessly aspire,
Surging, unto skies of fire;
Lakes that endlessly outspread
Their lone waters—lone and dead,—
Their still waters—still and chilly
With the snows of the lolling lily.

By the lakes that thus outspread
Their lone waters, lone and dead,—
Their sad waters, sad and chilly
With the snows of the lolling lily,—
By the mountains—near the river
Murmuring lowly, murmuring ever,—
By the grey woods,—by the swamp
Where the toad and the newt encamp—
By the dismal tarns and pools
Where dwell the Ghouls,—
By each spot the most unholy—
In each nook most melancholy—
There the traveller meets aghast
Sheeted Memories of the Past—
Shrouded forms that start and sigh
As they pass the wanderer by—
White-robed forms of friends long given,
In agony, to the Earth—and Heaven.

For the heart whose woes are legion
'Tis a peaceful, soothing region—
For the spirit that walks in shadow
'Tis—oh, 'tis an Eldorado!
But the traveller, travelling through it,
May not—dare not openly view it!
Never its mysteries are exposed
To the weak human eye unclosed;
So wills its King, who hath forbid
The uplifting of the fringed lid;
And thus the sad Soul that here passes
Beholds it but through darkened glasses.

By a route obscure and lonely,
Haunted by ill angels only,
Where an Eidolon, named NIGHT,
On a black throne reigns upright,
I have wandered home but newly
From this ultimate dim Thule.

Awesome, right?? Okay that's all I wanted to share! Night :)

Sunday, February 7, 2010

story time!

What with doing things and writing about doing things (and sleeping), it seems like I hardly have time for anything else. Oops. This is maybe a little too addictive. Oh well, carrying on...the weekend was pretty fun. Let me tell you about it in excruciating detail!

Wednesday:

Went to the lecture I mentioned last post. It was this Imam, I guess, and his wife, talking about ameliorating relations between Islam and the West. It was in English and mostly not that interesting—the wife especially seemed unable to focus on anything other than her own life story ("It all started one dark Friday the thirteenth in Kashmir"), but the cool part was that we got headphones through which we could hear someone translating into Arabic, and while I couldn't get all of it, and hearing the English certainly helped, I was still surprised by how much I could understand of what they were saying in Arabic translation—like, most of it was straight up Al-Kitaab MSA (!). So that was cool. Walked back with Matthew and chatted about gay identities (or lack thereof) in the Middle East—also cool. Did lots of Arabic homework—less cool. But you know. Classes.

Thursday:

So I had really wanted to go to an Umm Kulthoum-themed puppet show (!!!) in Zamalek. This was largely because of the Pop Culture in the Middle East class I took last semester—I have probably read/watched waaaay more than is necessary about Umm Kulthoum and ideas of modernist/nationalist discourses and Egyptian authenticity. But also because, dude. Puppets singing "Inta Omri," can you imagine?! Awesome.

Anyway, I tried to get other students to go with me, but they all offered lame excuses like, "Puppets freak me out." Haha. Or they didn't know/care who Umm Kulthoum was which, um, is that allowed in Egypt? Even for our generation? Dunno.

Anyway, I texted Matthew being all needy, like, "come with me!" and while that didn't happen, he ended up hooking me up with a couple of his friends who were planning to go. Only turns out they were planning to go to a DIFFERENT puppet show. Like seriously? How many of those are there on one night? But I guess puppets are puppets, and puppets are exciting, so we traipsed over to the puppet theater and attempted to buy tickets, only they were SOLD OUT. Really? I never thought puppetry was really a huge thing in Cairo, but now I'm starting to wonder...

Anyway, we pretended to be clueless tourists, we don't speak Arabic, can we please just go in for five minutes to see?, etc. So they let us in without tickets, and we watched the first ten minutes of the show, and then they made us leave. It was fun. Something about dreams (أحلام), I dunno. Couldn't understand most of it, but I swear to god one of the songs they did sounded exaaaaactly like this other song I know (also because of that pop culture class I mentioned). Aside from the lyrics I mean. See for yourself. I don't think I'm making this up...







 (stage)







Anyway, after getting kicked out, we got koshari at this, I kid you not, five-story, neon-lit place with a pond and fake ducks inside. It was a little crazy. And a lot delicious. Om nom Egyptian food. I am going to miss this.








(Abu Tarek koshari)










After that we went to a shisha/coffee place and observed firsthand generational/class differences:















I love how the old guy with the amazing combover and his dice-game-playing partner are right next to the two young dudes with a laptop and bluetooth earpieces or whatever they're called. Like really? I mean cool I guess.

After that, went back home, then headed out to a bar/club with some of the girls on the program and their random rich boy Egyptian friends, who handily covered the cost of the night. Really the thing that made me happiest was that they played Cheb Khaled and Lady Gaga practically back to back. Haha. Yay. I thought I was the only person who would ever do that.

So anyway, that was Thursday.

Friday-Sunday:

Slept most of the day Friday as I always do on weekends. Lazed around. Uploaded photos to Facebook. Et cetera. It was one of the girls' birthdays so we went and got sushi for dinner at the hotel across the street, then went back to her place for cake. That was delicious. Later went to a house party with some girls studying abroad at AUC that one of the guys on the program is friends with. So that was ... something. It was super far away and took forever for the taxi driver to find, and by the time we were halfway to the tenth floor (the elevator was broken) we could hear the frat boys and smell the beer. Like, really, Americans? Really this is how you have to comport yourselves? So mostly it was just obnoxious.

Also obnoxious is how I invariably get read as like, a fourteen year old boy. This one dude at the party took it upon himself to approach me at least five times asking how old I was, when I was born, if I had an ID to prove it. Like for real? I mean I guess I could have whipped out my license and been all, "what do you have to say to THAT?" but it would probably have just created more problems than it would've solved because I look like a girl there. Meh.

Anyway, it was an adventure I guess. There were seven of us and on the way back we all piled into one taxi because they seemed really sparse. Like, we were glad to find even one. So that was fun. Thankfully they don't have that stupid rule like in Morocco where you can only have three passengers in a cab. (Still can't believe they actually enforced that.) So yeah, five in the back, two in the passenger seat, worked out totally fine, made it back in one piece. Go us.

Slept lots more on Saturday, went and bought notebooks, ate lots of deliiiiiiicious Chinese food (!!!!), did a bunch of homework, the end.

Went to classes today, there's a lecture on modern Egyptian history later that should be good, then more homework/reading.

Woo Egypt.

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Sondheim Solves Everything

Seriously, who else do I ever turn to to explain life in meaningful, rhyming, clever, everything-would-be-perfect-if-only-I-could-write-lyrics-that-well terms?

The song on my mind today is "Sorry-Grateful" from the musical Company, one bit in particular:

Everything's different; nothing's changed...
Only maybe slightly rearranged.

You're sorry-grateful, regretful-happy,
why look for answers where none occur?
You'll always be what you always were,
which has nothing to do with—all to do with her.

I can only assume that the "her" in this case is Cairo—though lord knows it's been other hers before—and while the song and show are technically about the uncertain happiness surrounding marriage (ew), really that same idea can transfer to any human experience ever I think. Just the way in which experiences affect you and your identity/identities and shape you into the person you would probably be anyway except somehow, subtlely, totally different. Does that make sense? I just really love that last couplet. The whole song really.

Anyway, my point here (which I promise I'll get to) is not that I'm sorry or regretful to be in Cairo, and maybe Sorry-Grateful's a bit too melancholy to be entirely appropriate right now. ('Cause like, dude! I'm in Cairo!) But what's currently most important is the "everything's different; nothing's changed" part. Sometimes I forget how life is always life. How I always have classes, how I always have homework, how I'm always bad at going to sleep at a reasonable time and at waking up in the morning, how I'm always liable to catch colds at inopportune times. How I always put off doing laundry for far longer than I should. How there's always an awesome lunch place down the street that I always go to between classes. How there're always people around me who I really do like. How nothing central to the human condition ever actually changes.

So I drink Fanta apple (!) instead of apple juice, so I eat koshari instead of burritos and ful instead of peanut butter, so I walk down city streets instead of across campus. Life is still the same and that's not a bad thing that's a great thing, I think. Because the little things that change, the things that make it seem so different, also make everything wonderful and exciting and new and happy, but the big things being the same is what keeps you sane. Or something like that. Makes you realize that humanity is humanity.

(...Although, really? Classes already? At eight am? Seriously? Haha. Oh wellllll.)

Sorry for being rambly and philosophical, I thought I had something to say but maybe not.

But yeah, the past few days have just been the start of classes, the start of homework. Buying books, reading papers, forgetting to do homework, deciding which classes to take. My final schedule is as follows, though, I think:

 

So that should be good. MSA's going to be crazy intense. I should probably be doing homework for that right now, actually...oh well. 'Amiyya and media Arabic will probably be pretty laid back and vocab-y, though, maybe balance that out. Inshallah. And I'm super excited for both of the content courses despite their awkward timing and slightly intimidating workloads. So I'll let you know how they go once the semester's underway. Because I'm sure you all care SO MUCH. Seriously though. I'm betting they'll be rull cool.

I guess the IR professor (who has a Wikipedia page) is like, a member of the Shura council, which, what?! I mean I think he was appointed, not elected, but still. Like where are we, how is this real? During the first lecture, he was all, "oh yeah, and then the president of Iran invited me to give a talk there..." and it was just ... seriously? Seriously you're our professor? So it seemed pretty cool, he totally knew what he was talking about, plenty organized, et cetera. And while some of the other people here know a lot about modern history/politics, the formation of the Middle East and so on, I definitely don't. So I think I'm going to learn a lot from this class. Yay.

Also, Islam and Politics. We'll see how that one goes. It's a different professor for the first two weeks than for the rest of the semester—the former is I think a religious scholar at al-Azhar, whereas as far as I know the latter is ... I don't know, a normal academic. (Haha. Sorry, I'm a bad person. I just mean like an ostensibly-secular/neutral political scientist or something. Haven't actually met her yet so maybe not. Dunno.) Anyway, the first lecture was just basic early Islamic history—which is to say, the same first lecture as every Islam class ever—which was fine; the second was an overview of the importance of shari'a and fiqh and stuff like that. Also fine, aside from what I think were a lot of made-up statistics, but I'm still waiting for the course to hit its stride so we'll see. I'm excited. I mean this is kind of what I live for you know? This is my class. Islam and Politics. Bring it on.

Anyway I reeeeally should go do homework. (grumble grumble procrastination.) We're meeting later to go to a lecture/discussion that sounds like it should be pretty cool, so I'll keep y'all updated on that but that means fus7a-ing it up now. Mmmmmmm al-Kitaab. But yay Cairo!

Okay homework time go.